How to ask for the haircut you actually want
Most people sit down and say “just a bit off the sides”, which means something different to every barber alive. Low, mid and high describe where the fade starts. The guard number is how short it finishes. Pick the three below and we will write the sentence for you.
Say this in the chair
A taperLow fadeMid fadeHigh fadeA drop fadeA burst fade, taken down to the skina #½ on the sidesa #1 on the sidesa #1½ on the sidesa #2 on the sidesa #2½ on the sidesa #3 on the sidesa #3½ on the sidesa #4 on the sidesa #5 on the sidesa #6 on the sidesa #7 on the sidesa #8 on the sides, scissors on topclippers on top, tapered at the neckblocked at the neckrounded at the neck.
Two more worth saying out loud: “line it up” if you want the front hairline squared off, and “leave the length on top” if you are growing it out — that one gets lost more often than any other.
Taper, fade, drop, burst — what each one means
Not a fade. The hair gets gradually shorter toward the neckline and sideburns and never goes to skin. The conservative one — it grows out without a line, and it is what to ask for if a job interview is involved.
A real fade, starting just above the ear. Keeps the most weight of the three heights and makes the softest change.
Starts around the temple. The middle one, and what most people mean when they just say “a fade”.
Starts near the corner of the head. The sharpest, and the one that grows out quickest.
The fade line drops behind the ear instead of running level, following the curve of the head. Keeps more weight at the back.
Fades out in a semicircle around the ear and leaves the back and the neckline long. The one to ask for with a mullet or a textured crop.
Every guard, and what it leaves
| Guard | Leaves | Metric |
|---|---|---|
| Skin | — | no guard |
| #½ | 1/16 in | 1.5 mm |
| #1 | 1/8 in | 3 mm |
| #1½ | 3/16 in | 4.5 mm |
| #2 | 1/4 in | 6 mm |
| #2½ | 5/16 in | 8 mm |
| #3 | 3/8 in | 10 mm |
| #3½ | 7/16 in | 11 mm |
| #4 | 1/2 in | 13 mm |
| #5 | 5/8 in | 16 mm |
| #6 | 3/4 in | 19 mm |
| #7 | 7/8 in | 22 mm |
| #8 | 1 in | 25 mm |
The number is eighths of an inch — a #1 leaves one eighth, a #8 leaves a full inch. The half sizes sit between the whole ones and are what a barber reaches for to blend a fade.
Scissors or clippers on top
Cut by hand. Keeps length and texture, and it is what you want if you style it in the morning.
Cut to one length with a guard. Lower maintenance, and it holds its shape longer between cuts.
The neckline — the part you cannot see
No hard line. It grows out softly and never leaves a shelf — ask for this if you are not sure.
A straight horizontal line across the bottom. Sharpest for about a week, then the line grows down and has to be cleaned up.
A curved line following the natural hairline. Between the two — neater than a taper, softer than a block.
Still not sure? Bring a picture
A photo settles in two seconds what a paragraph cannot. Bring one on your phone — every barber here would rather see it than guess. And if you are growing it out, say “leave the length on top” before the cape goes on, not after.
Questions we actually get asked
What is the difference between a taper and a fade?
A taper is a gradual shortening around the ears and the neckline only. A fade takes the whole side down, and low, mid or high describes how far up the head it starts. Every fade is a taper; not every taper is a fade.
What do the guard numbers mean?
Each number is a clipper guard, and each one is an eighth of an inch. A number 1 leaves an eighth of an inch, a number 4 leaves half an inch. Zero is the bare blade, and skin is closer still.
What is a drop fade?
The fade line curves down behind the ear instead of running straight around, so it follows the shape of your head. A burst fade does the same thing but arcs around the ear itself, leaving the back long.
How short is a skin fade?
Down to the skin at the bottom, blended up into whatever guard you choose. It is the sharpest look on the list and the one that grows out fastest — expect to be back in about two weeks to keep it crisp.
Can I just bring a photo instead?
Yes, and it is the fastest way to get it right. The vocabulary on this page is for the times you do not have one.